Ciccio’s SoHo is now two — nearly three — distinctive restaurants in one. There are plenty of light items on the menu and heavier plates, as well. All are recommended for lining your stomach before a night of serious, SoHo barhopping.

While restaurants come and go, especially in these tumultuous economic times, Ciccio’s appears locked in for the long haul. The restaurant enjoys a loyal clientele and a strong reputation for affordable quality. Metromix has eaten there numerous times over the years. Not once have we been disappointed with a single aspect of the dining experience.

The Drinks: Ciccio’s full-bar has just about anything a serious imbiber could desire, including a fairly substantial wine selection and tasty, homemade red, white and sparkling wine sangria. The only drawback? No happy hour specials. None. Come on, guys. We’re in a recession. How about a glass of that great sangria for less than $8, from, say, 5 p.m. to 7 p.m.?

The Food: Ciccio’s truly offers something for everyone, making it the perfect spot to bring the family or a first date. The California cuisine section of the menu includes uniformly outstanding fresh wraps, stirfrys, brick oven thin-crusted pizza, and killer salads like the Goat Cheese ($5.95). It’s at once simple and sensational. Generous amount of terrifically tart cheese made from goat’s milk, mixed seasonal greens, crispy, cheery tomatoes, served with a subtlety sweet balsamic vinaigrette. (Add a breast of Ciccio’s excellent grilled chicken for $3.25.)

Speaking of chicken, the California cuisine “famous entrees” section includes the Pollo Ricotta ($14.95), a first-rate, super-filling plate of two, tender chicken breasts covered in creamy, understated garlic-ricotta goodness and a spot-on sherry sauce. A heaping pile of smartly seasoned mashed potatoes accompanies the poultry.

Enthusiast of old-school pasta dishes should peruse the Ciccio’s & Tony’s part of the menu. That’s where you will find penne four cheeses, linguini and rigatoni dishes. All of them are highly recommended.

The Water Sushi choices equal their older counterparts. There are assorted rolls ranging from the Alaskan crab-stuffed Volcano ($12) to the yellowtail-laced Unicorn Roll ($8). The Asian Slaw ($6.50) looks like a flavorless assembly of tropical foliage. But take one bite and you are unexpectedly inundated with the natural sweetness of mango and honey toasted soy nuts. The Tuna Tar Tar ($8) is another winner that takes the diced ahi and covers it a most agreeable avocado-based sauce. The accompanying crispy wonton chips are mighty tasty, too. Still have room for dessert? Go with the Tiramisu ($5.25). The light, sugary lady finger, cocoa and whipped egg Italian cake comes with strawberries, grapes, pineapples and guaranteed awesomeness.

The Damage: Ciccio’s is the best deal in SoHo. Salads are in the $5 range and entrees hover around $15. Most sushi plates can be had for $10. Two people can easily enjoy an adult beverage and a filling dinner for around $50.

The Décor: The medium-sized room has a tile floor, soft blue walls, and a small but classy bar. The rather low ceiling is lined with what appear to be mattresses. It sounds odd, but works. There’s also covered outside seating. Inside, tables are placed a bit too close together for some, but if you’re into eavesdropping — and, really, who isn’t, especially when we’re talking the SoHo set — Ciccio’s offers great fun!

The Crowd: People of basically all ages frequent the establishment — but mostly it’s young and hip, movers and shakers.

The Service: Beautiful young women serve you with a smile, quickly and attentively.

The Dress Code: You would feel foolish in shorts, T-shirt and flip-flops. Jeans work, though.

Insider Tips: If you are not super-svelte and under six-feet tall, avoid the seating on the far right upon entering. The booths are tiny.

Bottom Line: When considering the variety and consistent quality of the menu, affordability, location, and service, Ciccio’s easily ranks as one of the top restaurants in Tampa. Many SoHo residents swear by it. Visit, and you probably will, too.

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Ciccio’s SoHo
1015 S. Howard Ave., Tampa, (813) 251-8406 or ciccioandtonys.com.